Saturday 16 February 2013

Hawaii Day 4, Richardson Ocean Park, Hawaii Vocanoes National Park, macadania orchard


Hawaii, Saturday, 2012-2-2

We checked out from the hotel very early this morning, and the driver came to pick us up at 6:00 to go to the airport to catch a flight  to Hilo in Hawaii. We arrived at Hilo at shortly after eight and met our tour guide. The rest of the tour group had already waiting in the car, and the only seats for us to take were at the last row.

The airport in Hilo was very close to the city, and we drove east on Kalanianaole Ave to Richardson Ocean Park. We passed the port which had the facility to accommodate a cruise ship. The area around Hilo had suffered many lost in lives and damage in properties by tsunami. Some of the major tsunami occured in 1946, 1957 (8 m high), 1960 (12 m), 1975 (9 m), and in 2011. Some houses were built on stilts against the possible threat of flooding from the tsunami, but the majority had no stilts.

Richardson Ocean Park was just about 5 km east of the airport. The shore was the rugged volcanic rocks, and in many places along the road, waves broke at the rocks not far from or right on shore. The park had many coconut trees and a beautiful garden like lagoon at its entrance, and there were many kayaks on the ground. All of them had a single rig to prevent it from flipping in rough sea. There were many surfers in the water and the wave was about a man height. Most of the surfers laid on their boards and paddled with their hands, and only one surfer used a row. I assumed that one could surf better without having to handle the row.

There was a small black sand beach, and unlike the black beach which I had seen in Indonesia, the sand on this beach was very large, as large as the size of small bean, due to its young age. There were some pahoehoe lava, and it had the appearance of smooth, billowy, undulating, and ropy. It really looked like the intestines or brain. The other  lava was rough and rubbly and was called a’a locally. We also saw large boulder of volcanic origin. There were many tidal pools and we saw the flipper of a sea turtle sticking out from its hiding place under a rock.  

We then returned on the same road toward the city, and stopped at Big Island Candies Factory south of Honolulu Park to see the making of chocolate coated macadamia nuts. The nuts were poured into a bowl of melt chocolate and a worker would then scoop them up one at a time and put them into the packaging tray.

Our next stop was Rainbow Falls in Wailuku River State Park in the northwest of the city of Hilo. There was a grove of very tall mango trees and African tulip trees on the parking lot. We also saw the Hawaii state tree kukui in the parking lot. Its nut had high contents of oil, and in the old day, the local used it as a candle and therefore the tree was also known as the candlenut tree. Later I learned that this tree was very common in Indonesia, and its nut was known as kemini.  Like it was in Hawaii, the nut was used in cooking or used with other vegetables raw. The parts of the tree had many uses, and right now the nuts were turned into Hawaiian nut lei.

The falls was not far from the parking lot, and it flowed out of the rocky bed of Wailuku River over a natural lava cave. It was only about 24 m high. During a high flow season of the river, the falls was as wide as the river, but when we were there it was just a narrow falls and was not very spectacular. However, a narrow section or a whole of a rainbow could always be seen in the mist thrown by the falls. We went up a short trail to see the source of the falls, and saw large and pretty yellow flowers on vine in the shape of trumpet. Later, I found it to be cup of gold (solandra maxima). Farther on, we saw a grove of tall mango trees and large banyan trees. These were trees we saw from the parking lot. The fallen red flowers of the African tulip covered the ground and the trail.

We then have lunch in a Chinese restaurant in Joint Astronomy Center  west of University of Hawaii. It had limit number of choices on its menu, but the price was high. The price for a simple salad bar was $16. We had to make another stop for shopping at Akatsuka Orchid Garden on our way to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park which was the reason that I came to Hawaii. We saw many beautiful orchids there but none of us bought anything. We wasted half an hour of our precious time there. In my view, half of a day had been wasted on things that were not why I came to Hawaii. We had gained an altitude of 900 m, and I could feel the change in temperature.



Hawaii or the Big Island was made up of 5 shield volcanoes, and they were all the product of the upwelling of the molten lava from the hotspot deep in the mantle of earth core. The volcano that we would visit was called Kilauea. It was located in the southeast part of the island, and was the youngest and the most active volcano among the five. It emerged above the sea in about 50 to 100 thousand years ago. It lacked any prominent topography feature, and was seen only as a shield shape dome feature on the flank of the adjacent larger volcano Mauna Loa. It had a distinct and large caldera measuring 4 by 3.2 km and its wall was 120 m high. This caldera was created during the many recent eruptions of Kilauea. During an eruption of a shield volcano, the floor of its  caldera would be pushed up by the pressure of the emerging lave under it. It was then filled with the emerging lava and formed a lava lake. The lava might overflow the caldera or flow out through breaches in the caldera. Toward the end of the eruption, the lava would drain back underground through pit craters or vents and a giant whirlpool of lava might be formed in the lake. The molten lava would eventually returned to the deep underground reservoir where it originally came from, and left the floor of the lake with weak and little support. The floor would eventually collapse under its own weight.

Within this caldera, there was Halemaumau Crater at its southwestern corner. It was almost a circle with a diameter of 920 m and a vertical wall of 85 m high. It was a pit crater of Kilauea volcano and also the center for many of its recent eruptions. The Hawaiian Volcano Observatory was located at the mid-western side of the Kilauea Crater, and the Kilauea Overlook was very close to the observatory. The overlookt was right at the edge of the crater, and was just over a kilometer from the closest edge of Halemaumau crater.

Just outside the eastern ridge of Kilauea Caldera, there was another pit crater called Kilauea Iki. It was a little smaller than Halemaumau. In 1959, a new lava shield called Pu’u Pua’i was formed by the upwelling molten lava under the ground. It erupted and shot up fountain of molten lava hundreds of meters high. The lava flowed into Kilauea Iki crater and formed a lava lake. The lava in the lake eventually drained back underground toward the end of the eruption.

A road called Crater Rim Drive had been constructed around and enclosed Kilauea Caldera and Kilauea Iki Crater. It had a length of 18 km and had several overlooks. There were several long hiking trails on the lava floor. Halemaumau Trail started from the northeast corner of Kilauea Caldera and transverse the floor of the caldera, passed the eastern edge of Halemaumau Crater and ended at the nearby parking lot on Crater Rim Drive at the southwestern corner of the caldera. Another trail called Byron Ledge Trail went south along the eastern wall of the caldera, and then turn west to join the Halemaumau Trail at north of the crater. Kilauea Iki Trail started from the eastern end of the crater, transversed its floor, and passed the foot of Pu’u Pua’i and reached the western end of the crater. I then joined the Byron Ledge Trail by climbing up the wall of the crater and then down the wall of the caldera. 

Another interesting thing to see in the park was the lava tube. During Kilauea eruption, the molten lava found their way pouring down the volcano into Hilo Bay. The outside skin of one branch or  asection of this lava flow gradually cooled down and harden, but the lava inside the core of this flow remain hot and continued to flow until it ran out of the supply of molten lava and became a tunnel. There were probably many of such tunnels transporting molten lava down the volcano to the sea during an eruption.

We arrived at Hawaiian Volcano Observatory in the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park at 13:40, and immediately we walked to Kilauea Overlook to see Kilauea Caldera. The overlook provided an unobstructive view of the surrounding due to the lack of any trees or tall vegetations. Kilauea caldera was huge. Steam was coming out of Halemaumau crater. Like other pit crater, the floor of this crater collapsed and sunk after the molten lava had returned to its chamber, and left a vertical wall around the crater. The Thomas A Jaggar Museum in the observatory had many good exhibitions explaining the characteristics of Kilauea volcano and many related subjects. I knew that there was not enough time to study each one of them, and busy myself just to take the photo of those I found interesting. By the time I left the museum, the rest of the tour group had already anxiously waiting in the car.

We returned to Crater Rim Drive and drove counter clockwise. We stopped at an active small Steam Vent not far down the road puffing steam. The steam was produced by water sipping down on the hot rock underground. Regretfully, the guide didn’t take us to the Sulphur Bank which was not far away. According to the literature, the volcanic mineral deposits and smell in Sulphur Bank was similar to that in Yellowstone. We continued on the road and stopped at Kilauea Iki lookout. We could see clearly the lighter colour trail and the specks of hikers on the floor of the crater. The cracks of the lava near the foot of the wall looked similar to the pressure ridge of ice on a lake. We could also see very clearly the broken surface of Pu’u Pua’i liked the broken crust of a cake. 


We continued on the drive and stopped at Thurston Lava Tube not far away. This tube was discovered in 1931, and was located at the bottom of a crater presently filled with jungle. We walked down a trail and saw many fern trees along the trail. The singing of song birds filled the air but we could not see them. The widest part of Thurston tunnel was about 3 m in diameter, and it was big enough to walk for its whole length of 200 m. Unlike a regular cave, its cross section was uniformly circular all the way from start to end. The wall and floor were wet. It was lighted with electricity but the light was not strong enough to show the texture and features on the wall of the tunnel. And I felt like walking in a giant underground storm drainage pipe. At the parking lot, I saw a tall tree, and a bunch of brown colour fine roots about 50 cm long and 25 cm wide at its widest section was hanging on one of its branch like the aerial prop root of a banyan tree. It was also like a giant Chinese brush. I saw a similar tree when we passed near the southeast corner of Ola’a Forest Reserve on HW #11 on our way to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. And it had several bunches of this roots hanging on the branches of the tree. I wondered if it was a parasitic plant.

Chain of Craters Rd branched out south from Crater Rim Drive at south of Kilauea Iki crater. It ran initially through forest and then mostly in the barren land of lava field all the way to the coast for a length of 30 km. It would pass many craters, lava flows, and offered many beautiful vistas. This was one of the major attractions that I wanted to see on this trip. However, the guide took us only up to Lua Manu just a short distant after we turned into this road. Lua Manu was a small pit crater, and the road had been covered by lava but now had been re-paved. On both side of the road one could see a large field of lava. Surprisingly, we saw ohi'a lehua trees stood up in the black lava field. The guide had repeated many times to warm us not to pick any rocks on this tour or else it would bring bad lucks. However, many of us could not resist the temptation of picking some for  souvenirs.  This was the end of our tour to the national park, and we took the same road back to Hilo.


On the way, we passed the huge macadamia orchard and stop at the store of Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Corporation. For the first time I saw the real macadamia tree. It was about 25 m high, and looked like a lizhi tree. Its flowers were produced in a long raceme 5-30 cm long. Its fruits were round like large dragon fruits and were very hard and woody, and took 3 months to develop. The first crop was produce 5 years after planting from graft, and it took 15 years for a tree to mature. A mature tree produced as much nuts in kilogram as much or more than its own age in years. When the fruit was mature, the outside husk would dry and split, and the nut would drop to the ground. The  harvesting was therefore consisted of collecting nuts falling on the ground. The tree was brittle in nature and must be protected from strong wind. We saw rows of narrowly conical trees had been planted as wind breaker.

We check-in at Hilo Hawaiian hotel at 17:30. It was located on Banyan Drive in a peninsula in Hilo Bay in Hilo where row of large banyan trees were found along the drive. The hotel faced the bay and the Coconut Island, and the view was very pretty. It was also next to a beautiful Liliuokalani Garden and Waihono Pond. The whole set up had strong  flavour of a Japanese garden. It was a nice place to relax and enjoy the beautiful scenery.


More photos could be viewed in Picasa photo album of lku99999 in Google.

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